27 June 2008

August 2006 - Madagascar

Searching for a Mosque on an Island

Introduction: This was a rather bizarre request but then again, it sounded a bit fun – kind of reminded me of my favorite TV show, “The Amazing Race” which apparently has quite a large worldwide following. Just to let you all know an aside, my application, sent in with a friend from church, Russ, has apparently not been accepted as we have not as yet been called for that first round of interviews. Maybe we needed a new hook besides “Two church dads who might get lost and lose their tempers”? Anyway, the basic gist of this FOTM was this: Get to Madagascar; Search twelve places looking for three things.


Travel Leg 1: “No problem” I said, “25% chance of hitting it right off.” So, being anxious to escape the Singapore heat, I loaded up a Singapore Airlines 757 and set in a course for Flight Club International Airways HQ in Mumbai, India. (pict1)


The problem was this, I only had one Singapore Airlines aircraft in the hanger and apparently this 757 is not compatible with FS2004 – so I had no landing gear (really) and no guts to the engines. (pict2)


A bit disturbing to watch on video but manageable for this flight – after which I deleted the plane. Now I have no Singapore planes in my hanger! Also, I think I caught the tail-end of Bill’s Thunderstorm coming into Mumbai – very bumpy with lightning visible below. (pict3)


Travel Leg 2: From Mumbai (no cooler by the way) Flight Club International Airways Flight 188 leaves for St. Denis at 15:15 and is logged as 2606 miles. This time we’ll be flying the venerable 707. (pict4) (pict5)


Travel Leg 3: (pict6) I arrived in St. Denis just after 21:30 and according to the hand-written board in the terminal there was only one direct flight:


Flight Information - Thu., Aug. 3, 2006 Air Madagascar Flight 191 Departs: 7:30a Gillot (RUN) Arrives: 8:05a Antananarivo (TNR) Economy 733 1h 35m TEE1M So, I was off to find some cheap local lodging for a couple of days. On Thursday morning I arrived to the airport to notice that rather than the scheduled 733 we had a Kulula.com 732 waiting. While this seems to sound like an Aussie paint scheme I downloaded it as part of an “African 732” package (and it has a South African registration). We climbed the stairs at 7:13, the doors closed on time, the flight was really only half full, and we proceeded to taxi out to runway 29 for take-off. There really isn’t much to write about the flight into Madagascar as it’s all over water but with scheduled flight time of 1:35, we parked up on the ramp at 08:04. (pict7) (pict8)


Flight of the Month: During my layover in St. Denis I was able to call ahead and sure enough, the GA-8 Airvan I had reserved was waiting for me. Also, with the clues in hand, I had my route all worked out as well – sort of a “connect-the-dots” kind of route around the island. I noticed that there were six locations on the north half and six on the south half – the author probably planned it that way. I also figured I’d have to do at least part of both areas – so I marked out a route basically consisting of two anti-clockwise loops of the island. (pict9)


If I found all the landmarks quickly, I could return to Antananarivo early or…just continue my explorations. It was 9 AM Thursday and the race was on now! I set all scenery and autogen to the MAX settings, then I started the Airvan’s engine and contacted tower for taxi directions out of this “airport-in-a-hole.” So far the scenery MS has given us is as I expected from Madagascar – although St. Denis reminded me of Tahiti, just with darker water!
After departure (pict10) I headed westbound but quickly found that I’d need to be dodging these big cumulus clouds.
While I cruised along I looked again at the information provided: “Airport with a dirt runway and city.” I see brown and I see hills which leads me to believe it’s in the middle of the country…I see four possibilities for that. The one with the temple and run-down building looks easier, they show us a heading of about 225*? This means that the temple and apartments, to the left of runway 22 are east of the airport, water west means it’s on the western coast…I see really only three options for that one. Finally, “An observatory on a bluff with the airport some distance away” – it may also be that the “pointy bay” is on the opposite side of town from the runway?


Hmmmmmm. First stop is FMML. I see nothing here like what was noted in any of the two coastal clues, so I head 220*, stopping at Morondava airport just to be sure. I found a temple here but it’s not too near the airport and…it’s not on my list of twelve!
Heading 220*… (pict12)


I soon see the airport ahead, I’m perfectly lined up! Then I recall the photo of the heading 225 or so – I’m hopeful. Sure enough, on short finals I see the temple off to the left! I look further ahead (causing me to land long) and spot the run-down building! (pict13) Great, I’ve scored a hit! Two stops and one of the clues done!


After departure I head inland, heading 159*, for over 180 miles. I’m hopeful that this next stop (FMSL) is the next “inland” city! Well, with no hills and really, not even any city, it’s not. I take up a heading of 137*. My next stop is FMSD, on the coast. As I approach I see the city clearly, some hills but no bluff overlooking the water, and the airport is in town. I circle the city looking for a beach-front cabin in which to sleep and finally land on runway 8 at about 14:50 PM. (pict14)

The next morning is clear but breezy. I take off from runway 26 at 08:13 and circle the city before climbing to 8,000 feet and taking up a heading of 021*. (pict15) This is a long leg, over 300 miles. Cruising at 120 knots it takes me about 2.6 hours to cover the distance. I’m certainly inland now, and there are hills! (pict16)

As I approach FMME I am hopeful that this FOTM could be 2/3 done at this point. I drop down low over the buildings and rooftops, circling the city three times before landing (heading into town). (pict17)

Unfortunately there does not appear to be any gas here so I walk into town. I get some fresh figs and some fresh bread. The local kids wants $8.97 per gallon to bring a cart of gasoline over to the airport – no way, I’ll risk it.

I depart back over the city before taking up a route back to the coast – could it be? Next stop is FMMH and it is VERY scenic – but I don’t stop here. (pict18)

My next heading is 005* and I know that this is not the sole remaining clue because it’s too far inland. As I fly along, I start getting worried about my gas. Do I want to take a 50-mile detour inland to FMMI? I risk the flight and continue into FMMZ. I land and taxi over to the radio tower that’s there…no gas though. After finally catching a ride into town I find a guy with a gas truck who is willing to top me off for only – get this, $12.33 per gallon. DANG IT! (pict19)
Okay, after arriving at noon, it’s now just after 15:00 Friday and I’m ready to head out. Next heading 039*. Next stop FMNR. The flight is nice, up over some high plateaus with the ocean far off to my right.


The next stop was FMNR, very nice but not it… I did a touch-and-go at this airport near the inlet. During my month in Madagascar I’m going to have to come back here, it’s pretty nice looking. (pict21)

Those of you who know me know that I don’t fly for 24 hours every Saturday (it’s my day off!) so I’m pressed now to see how much flying I can get in before dark. The next waypoint is FMNR and I see a pointy bay but it looks too big, has a bridge and is just not seeming quite like the clue. With the remaining airport being on the coast I thought surely…This place HAD to be it … I took four laps around the city looking for that observatory but with no luck. (love the bottom photo though) (pict22)

Finally at almost 17:00 I had to land for my day off … THEN I found the building – but since it’s not “on a bluff overlooking the ocean” I’ll have to presume that this is not my final stop. (pict23)
I spent my Saturday lounging along the beach, taking a sea-kayak tour, a couple of naps and just generally relaxing. I tell you, this Madagascar is a NICE PLACE!

Sunday dawned with a bit of drizzle, I left early, 07:00 but quickly got out of the soup. (pict24)
This leg to FMNN was across the northern part of the island but off to another sea-side airport – I remained hopeful. (pict25)

This island, “Nosy Bay” appears quite remote, nice place to visit though, so I landed and asked about my clue…no one had a clue. (pict26)

My next stop was FMNF but this airport is inland, I knew that wasn’t it, so I skipped that and headed to my last waypoint, on the coast, FMNM. It seemed odd that an airport with a “clue” would be so near the capital…there had to be a mistake, so as Otto carried me along the scenic northwestern coastline I double-checked my destinations: (pict27)

FMMI was my starting point FMML was number one – 8th on the list FMSR was number two – 10th on the list and one of the “targets” FMSL was third – 6th on the list FMSD was fourth – 12th on the list FMME was fifth – 3rd on the list and “target” two FMMH was sixth – HOLY SMOKES, not on the list! How could this be? FMMZ was seventh – 1st on the list FMNR was eighth – 9th on the list also FMNS was ninth – YIKES! I must be losing my mind!!!! FMNN was tenth – 7th on the list FMNF was to be eleventh – 5th on the list FMNM was last – 11th on the list I was MISSING FMNH and FMMQ! How on earth did I do this! UN-believable. “Okay, stay calm…” I landed at Philibert Tsiranana at 10:03 AM Sunday. “Okay, first find a map…”

Looking for Antsirabato and Atsinanana. First I note that FMNH is closer to me in the north. Secondly I note that while FMMQ is way down south it’s also not by the coast – so I plan to head for Antsirabato first. I refuel the plane, haul out some trash, get a cold drink (it’s warm and humid, like 32*C) and plot in a route NE across the entire country….uggh, I can’t believe I did that! Departure from FMNM is 11:10 AM.

Finally at 13:00 I dropped down over a coastal ridge and buzzed the airport at mid-field. Well, I can see the analogy to Hana as there is a big ol’ hillside immediately north of the airport. (pict28)
I followed the road - a long road, into town and sure enough, there it was right on the ridge!! Ye-Haw! I circled back and landed at FMNH, done for this FOTM. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tzt9ksUI7M0


Postlog: On Monday I skipped back to FMMI and turned in my Airvan in exchange for the Flight Club’s PC-12 (about 100 mph faster in the air!). I spent the next two wonderful weeks touring, mainly, the northern half of the island, landing up pretty-near at every last one of the airports depicted. (pict30)

Not as scenic as the Canary Islands; not as tough as PNG; but MAN, THIS WAS FUN! Thanks to all for participating.

pretendpilot@yahoo.com